Review: SAMPA Restaurant, Manchester

Calcio in Northern Quarter isn’t the first place that comes to mind for a tasting menu, but beneath this bustling sports bar lies SAMPA – an intimate chef’s table that oozes exclusivity. So much so, that just eight diners at a time can visit.

There aren’t many chefs that could pull this concept off in Manchester, but Brazilian-born Caroline Martins is a force to be reckoned with. After finding fame on Brazilian MasterChef, she’s since gone on to enjoy successes on Great British Menu, and has been a staple in Manchester’s flourishing pop-up food scene.

After spending time at Blossom Street Social in Ancoats and Hatch on Oxford Road, Caroline’s latest venture is a Brazilian-British fusion concept that delivers a 12-course tasting menu for just £58. The menu changes daily, and features produce from local suppliers including Dan & The Bees Honey and Dormouse Chocolates.

As you sip on a tamarind and lime cocktail, you’ll able to watch Caroline and her team carefully prepare each dish right in front of you; there’s smoking, barbequing, and some serious blowtorching. It’s culinary theatre at its finest.

Guests are treated to both familiar and adventurous flavours in equal measure. You’ll find duck breast, ex-dairy cow and hake, but not in the way you know them; they’re teamed up with canjica (maize kernels) and chayote (squash), which bring some welcome freshness to the fold.

Highlights of this ambitious tasting menu include the trio of canapés, the blissful Orkney scallop with heart-of-palm and cassava, and the guava & Brazilian chocolate mushroom. An honourable mention also goes to the pão de queijo and duck liver parfait, which will be in my dreams for the foreseeable.

With so many big hitters, SAMPA really is a masterclass in fusion. Caroline and her team assert themselves with brave, bold cooking that isn’t afraid to blend cultures and ingredients – and the end result is something quite extraordinary. You won’t find another dining experience in Manchester quite like it.

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